Tuesday, March 31, 2015

A Love/Hate Relationship

I have had many extreme emotions- on both ends of the spectrum- about Argentina and Buenos Aires and studying abroad lately. Some of my favorite times and least favorite times have all happened in the last couple of weeks.

Last week I was thinking about the discomfort and difficulties of being here, and how much easier life is at home in various ways (check out my latest blog post about that). :) I called my best friend and my godsister and as much as its awesome to talk to them, it made me miss home and them even more.

On Saturday, my housemate from Colorado and I went to Tigre, a town about an hour by train from Buenos Aires. It is much more in nature and so beautiful! It sits on a delta and has hundreds of stands where you can buy mate gourds (so. many. choices.), woodwork, baskets, amazing food, and anything you can imagine! I can't wait to take my family there when they visit. It was really nice to get out of the city for a day. So this was great.

Then on Sunday, on the way to the Feria de Mataderos with a large group of students, my iPhone was taken out of my purse on the bus. I should have been paying more attention, yes, but no reason to think about that now that it's done. That day, I HATED Argentina and Buenos Aires. Why is everything so busy all the time? Why wasn't there another bus so this one wouldn't be so packed? Why are there economic problems that cause people to live in poverty? Why won't they make Apple products here so they aren't worth so damn much so that people feel the need to steal mine? Why can't all the people just GO AWAY?!

Yeah, I was pissed. I missed home. I don't want to have to carry my bag in front of me at all times and worry about the people around me. I don't want to have to speak Spanish and then be targeted because i'm obviously not from here.

Lots of back and forth feelings. But then yesterday (I know, i'm bipolar), I was thinking about all the little things I love about Argentina! So here's the list:

1. The closeness. In the US, we constantly have our personal bubble that no one is allowed in. Even some people don't like to sit too closely to people that are close to them. Here, you will get touched in places that you may not be touched on a regular basis by complete strangers on the bus, or street. It happens. It's not creepy, it's just how many people there are. And no one bats an eye. One of my favorite things is the kiss on the cheek (just one, on your right), when you first meet someone, or see someone you know. The girl I met once in my psych class did it to me last night. When i'm introduced to someone new I do it. I think it's so cool. Friends and couples walk around hand in hand, arms around them, couples make out at the park and lay on each other's laps while drinking mate, it's just a very loving, touchy culture. I think a little more human contact would do Americans good.

2. MATE. Ok, because I do not have all the info, and don't want to explain anything incorrectly, i'm going to post this link here about mate. http://www.therealargentina.com/argentinian-wine-blog/yerba-mate-tea-love-it-hate-it-drink-it/. Or google it if you want more info. It's basically a tea, but not just any tea. It has so many rituals surrounding it. It is made to share with friends, I read something once that was like how it has different purposes with other people and by yourself. With others, it is a time to enjoy each others company and share ideas and thoughts. By yourself, you have time alone with your thoughts and enjoying your own company. You will see people drinking mate any time of day. It has caffeine, but it makes you less jittery than coffee and sometimes people with caffeine sensitivity can enjoy mate too. Students use it to focus but it won't keep you up all night either. These are all things i've heard, i've had it several times but never in these situations. At first, it is very bitter, but i've come to really love the taste. I bought my own gourd (it's literally a gourd), and I still have to cure it before I can use it. I'll do a whole post on mate later when I start the process and show some pictures.

3. Public transportation. Yeah I know I complained about it earlier. But I am very fond of public transportation. For 3-3.75 pesos (25 to 30 cents with the blue dollar) you can ride the bus. And you usually don't have to walk more than a few blocks on either end to get to any destination in the city. And (normally) you don't have to wait too long. Sundays and feriados are different. Sometimes they are full and you have to stand for an hour, sometimes you can sit and enjoy yourself and city watching. It depends on the day and time.

4. The food. Alfajores (soft cookies with dulce de leche in 2+ layers all covered in chocolate) are my addiction because they are amazing. I need to stop. Dulce de leche, like caramel but better. The coffee. The medialunas, so much better than normal croissants. I have yet to try asado (bbq) but it'll be unreal (we're having one Thursday night in Mendoza! :)) Every little candy and cracker thing you buy tastes so good to me. The pizza, the ice cream (yes its all unhealthy so what).

5. The contradictions. So much juxtaposition in this city (shown in the video at the bottom that I found). There are so many beautiful modern places and so many dirty torn down areas. There are so many wealthy people and so many homeless people. In my pictures of the Recoleta Cemetery, you could see the super old cemetery with cranes and other modern buildings in the background. It is so interesting. And going along with this, the mixture of cultures. So much Italian and European influence on the culture and the city but also a feeling of Latin America and its own spice that it brings. Fascinating for an anth major :) Another: people love to relax and sit around and drink mate but also go really hard and party until 6 in the morning.... people just love life I guess.

6. Kind of a leeway off the last one, but people are so passionate. Whether it be in relationships (very nice) or when driving (lots of honking and cussing on the street) people are extremely passionate about their lives. No passivity here.

I can't think of any more specifics right now, but each day when I get frustrated, I try to think of these things. Each morning when I wake up I still (after 5 weeks) am like WAIT! I'm in Argentina! What!? Still haven't gotten used to it.

Here is this video someone posted on FB. It makes me so happy to be here. Can't wait to see other places in the country.

https://vimeo.com/122515337

Chau, besos!
-Anna


Wednesday, March 18, 2015

The Idea of Comfort

If you know me well, you know that I am one that likes to be comfortable. It could be something physical like temperature, a cozy bed or clothes, or maybe taking my contact lenses out for the day; it could be something emotional like having a plan, knowing how something is going to occur, or knowing the people around me. I am a big fan of this concept.

As a child, I was extremely shy and anxious. Many of you may not believe this, because sometimes I can be very loud and outgoing nowadays :). I hated new situations, I would cry and cry and beg my parents not to make me go to social events having to do with school, sports, or friends. I wouldn't let my close family or friends sing happy birthday to me before I blew out my birthday candles on the cake. I wouldn't walk across the stage with the rest of my class at my kindergarten graduation at age 6 (yes, we had a ceremony, with caps and gowns and diplomas and the whole shebang). I was full of fear and anxiety caused by uncertainty, attention, and overall, discomfort.

Thanks to my parents (seriously!!!) forcing me against my will to do many, many, MANY things, I have grown as a person and, I hate to admit, usually ended up loving whatever they forced me to do. I've gotten better over the years; first they made me join the basketball team, then go to sleepover camp with my Girl Scout troop, and more recently, go on the Spanish exchange in high school. Notice, all of these are experiences that required newness: new people, places, things, situations. This is what scared (scares) me the most.

I am still very in love with knowing what's going to happen. I am the one in every friend group that I have ever been in to plan the next sleepover, get together, or party. I am the one that is OCD enough to take action so I know what my plans will be this weekend, even though it probably would have worked itself out eventually. To do lists are my jammmm.

You might be asking yourself: why is this girl rambling so much about something seemingly unrelated to travel.... for me, this is the ESSENCE of travel.

I think if I were presented with this opportunity with the same mindset that I had when I was younger, I never would have done it in a million years. I must have changed a lot, because before arriving, when I told people about what I was going to do, I got reactions of shock when I told them I didn't know anyone else coming with me, I was going to live with an unknown family, immerse myself in a foreign language, go to a continent that most Americans have some sort of strange "fear" of due to what the media and the horror stories that their friends tell them.... and all of this seemed extremely small and insignificant to me.

I have been pondering this idea of comfort for the past few days, when I find myself thinking about home and "what if" situations comparatively to the ones I find myself in in Argentina.

There is a comfort in being able to get your point across exactly the way you formulate it in your mind, with exactly the right words.
There is a comfort to traveling the same path every day and knowing you will arrive on time to class or work.
There is a comfort to having a group of good friends close to you spatially to who you can text at any time to come hang out with you, and these same people you can rely on to hang out with you on the weekend.
There is a comfort to speaking the same damn language fluently as your teachers and waiters and shopkeepers and everyone around you are speaking
There is a comfort in knowing how assignments usually are, or what professors expect of you for a test or a paper.
There is a comfort in the fact that you can text on your iPhone while on the sidewalk and know for pretty certain it won't get stolen out of your hand.
There is a comfort in being able to find the products that you're used to at the store you know for sure will have them.
There is a comfort in knowing that people won't constantly ask you where you're from or stare at you because of the way you dress or talk, immediately noticing that you are a foreigner.

This experience is a constant stream of discomfort. I am fairly proficient in Spanish and still have to ask people to repeat things to me multiple times a day. I don't understand everything my professors are saying, and I don't always know exactly what to say to get my point across, and it's FRUSTRATING.

It's hard to feel the pressure of being here for such a short period of time: trying to travel to all the places you can, meet all the people you can, speak all the Spanish you can. There is a stream of advice given to any student before they go abroad and I think we all feel a need to live up to all of these points of advice that are given to us.

I hope that this post didn't come off negative, because I am loving every part of my study abroad so far. Buenos Aires is one of the most interesting places that I've ever been and everything is so beautiful- the people, the buildings, the way in which the porteños speak.

Even though my gut usually tells me that I want to stay home and watch Netflix, I know that I should go out and force myself to meet new people and have new experiences and dance to cumbia until 6 o'clock in the morning when the sun is rising.
I know that I should see new sights in the city, even though I have to take a new bus to get there, and my bus app probably won't tell me the right intersection to catch it, so I'll have to walk a few blocks or ask someone at a kiosko.
I know that I should go up and talk to a random person and not worry about them wondering "who is this American and why is she trying to speak Spanish?"

I have been here for three weeks and it feels like a lifetime, and it terrifies the shit out of me that I have 4 plus months left. But I wouldn't trade this for the world, and I know this extended period of discomfort will only allow me to grow as a person immensely. And if anyone has any advice, that has studied abroad or is now, pleaseeeee let me know!!!!

Thanks for reading, besos desde BsAs. Chao!
Anna

PS for family that may not be on Facebook I no longer have access to my American phone line, my Argentinian SIM is in my iPhone. So let me know if you want the number for iMessage or WhatsApp! Comment on here or email me or whatever!

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

This one's for you, mom and dad

Here's the link to my Facebook album of pictures (you can access it even if you don't have Facebook!)

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10204718715260076.1073741838.1002511197&type=1&l=60579b4dc3

I'm still alive and working on taking pictures of all the food to do a blog post on food! It might take me a while as I usually eat and then realize I should have taken a picture... sorry ya'll.

Sunday, March 8, 2015

the quirks of the city

I was hoping for my next post to be solely about food but i'm still working on getting pictures of everything so.... it'll come soon(ish) :)

I have been thinking a lot about the little things that I have noticed about the city in general (because i'm an anthropology major and constantly observing the world around me). There are lots of things that are probably just true to big cities but i've never noticed because i've never lived in a big city, so maybe some of these are obvious to other people but for me, they're new!

1. The dogs. There are dogs everywhere. Stray dogs, owners with dogs, dog walkers who walk 18 dogs at a time.... (see picture). They generally leave you alone but there are so many! (They also are allowed to go to the bathroom on the sidewalk. Lovely)

2. Sometimes, when you're walking alongside a tall building, you might feel like it's raining. But actually, it's just water (hopefully) falling on your head from up above. I think this is generally due to people watering plants on their balconies. I usually look at the ground to see if it's wet, and avoid that area when possible. Something i've never really had to think about!

3. The buses are extremely strange and confusing to me compared to the public transportation in Madrid, at least. You get on, and first of all you have to tell the driver your destination so he can put in how much you need to pay. Usually people scan their Sube card, a reloadable card for the subte (underground) and colectivo (bus). If you pay with cash, it has to be change (hard to come by in general) and more expensive. This ranges from about 3-3.75 pesos (with Sube card), from what i've gathered (that's about 30-40 cents, depending on how you exchanged your money). The porteños (people from Buenos Aires) usually just say how much they are going to pay. I still have no idea how they determine this, and why the driver just trusts them to just use that much distance, but who knows. Also, there is no indication of when the bus is stopping next. I have been looking at my map on my phone and seeing when I seem close enough and just getting off then. In Madrid, there is a message that says "next stop blah blah blah" none of that here. It's a guessing game for me, it'll be interesting to see if I ever feel completely comfortable riding it.

4. There is so much slang here. Holy crap. Even if you're really good at academic spanish, if you come here, don't expect to know what everyone is saying all the time. So much lunfardo. So many new words that don't mean anything like they sound. I apologize in advance for possibly using these words in class in the future.

5. The cell phone system is quite distinto (i literally can't think of a way to say this in English, it was the first word that came to mind). Distinct doesn't cut it, different doesn't cut it.... sorry guys. It's something along those lines. For us foreigners, we won't be here the entire time for a contract, so we have to use a prepay plan. For this, you get a phone, then you go to one of three major cell phone companies to get a SIM card. These are generally pretty cheap. Then, you go to any kiosko (like a little convenience store) to load money onto your SIM. Then, texts are a certain amount, minutes are a certain amount, and internet is. For my internet with Movistar, I have 15 GB a day for like 3,60 pesos (yeah, less than a dollar. super cheap). If I go over, it just gives me another 15 GB for the same price. Then you just keep loading money on as you go. Calling is significantly more expensive, then texting, then internet, so EVERYONE uses whatsapp. Like look at anyone's phone on the bus and that's what they're doing. It's like texting but over internet (think iMessage but between any smartphone). If not, they're texting. Barely anyone is talking on the phone. Also, not a ton of people have iPhones like where I am in the US. They're extremely expensive here and likely to get stolen.

6. Going out. If any of you know me well, you know that I have turned into quite the grandma in the last semester. Like when everyone else wants to part, I want to drink wine and watch Netflix and go to bed at 10 pm. Which is totally fine! So when I came to Buenos Aires, I was like oh darn. This whole going-out-all-night thing is gonna kill me.
Here, we eat dinner at 9 pm (actually quite early). Normally, people on the weekends eat at 10-12. After, they get ready and head to previa (pregame) at someone's house or a bar to drink and meet up with friends. At around 1-3, they head to the boliche (club). And then you leave at 6 or 7, go eat something, and go home and sleep all day. For me, this sounded like my worst nightmare.
The other night, the organization Argentina for All (that does events for international students and Argentine students) was hosting a welcome party at a boliche. The hours on the Facebook event were 11-6. Like at night. PM to AM. My roommate and I were determined to have the whole experience, so after dinner (at about 10 pm), we got ready, and headed to a bar to meet some other friends from ISEP. We got there at about 11:15, where we drank and hung out until about 1. And I think the only reason we left this early was because before 1:30, you got in free to the boliche. So we found the boliche, danced the night away, talked to some people (more like yelled in their ear, it's a club), and then 6 am finally rolled around. We were thirsty, hungry, and exhausted. The sun was rising overe the city. After finding our way home on the bus, we had to go get some food. So we waited for our favorite confiteria (bakery) to open at 7. Previous to this, we got asked by a couple of guys if we were European (ok, I can handle that). We ended up talking to them. We got some empanadas and medialunas, ate on the way home, chugged a whole bottle of water, and got in bed. The entire day consisted of sleeping, Netflix, and food. It was an insane experience, but totally normal for people to do this 1-2 nights a weekend. And it was much easier for me than I expected.

General note, don't believe everything you read about a city online. I read multiple things that i'm seeing are different here. For example, I read in multiple places that people don't wear shorts and flip flops unless they go to the beach. Tons of girls wear shorts here! And sandals! I would say 50/50 wear pants and shorts in the summer, which would be all shorts in the US, but still! I almost didn't bring any shorts with me. And I feel totally comfortable wearing them. Also, people said that porteños could be really rude, but everyone has been really nice from what i've seen! From now on, i'll take caution when reading about a place! Discover it for yourself!

Thanks for reading my ramblings, I hope you're enjoying them!
-Anna