I have had many extreme emotions- on both ends of the spectrum- about Argentina and Buenos Aires and studying abroad lately. Some of my favorite times and least favorite times have all happened in the last couple of weeks.
Last week I was thinking about the discomfort and difficulties of being here, and how much easier life is at home in various ways (check out my latest blog post about that). :) I called my best friend and my godsister and as much as its awesome to talk to them, it made me miss home and them even more.
On Saturday, my housemate from Colorado and I went to Tigre, a town about an hour by train from Buenos Aires. It is much more in nature and so beautiful! It sits on a delta and has hundreds of stands where you can buy mate gourds (so. many. choices.), woodwork, baskets, amazing food, and anything you can imagine! I can't wait to take my family there when they visit. It was really nice to get out of the city for a day. So this was great.
Then on Sunday, on the way to the Feria de Mataderos with a large group of students, my iPhone was taken out of my purse on the bus. I should have been paying more attention, yes, but no reason to think about that now that it's done. That day, I HATED Argentina and Buenos Aires. Why is everything so busy all the time? Why wasn't there another bus so this one wouldn't be so packed? Why are there economic problems that cause people to live in poverty? Why won't they make Apple products here so they aren't worth so damn much so that people feel the need to steal mine? Why can't all the people just GO AWAY?!
Yeah, I was pissed. I missed home. I don't want to have to carry my bag in front of me at all times and worry about the people around me. I don't want to have to speak Spanish and then be targeted because i'm obviously not from here.
Lots of back and forth feelings. But then yesterday (I know, i'm bipolar), I was thinking about all the little things I love about Argentina! So here's the list:
1. The closeness. In the US, we constantly have our personal bubble that no one is allowed in. Even some people don't like to sit too closely to people that are close to them. Here, you will get touched in places that you may not be touched on a regular basis by complete strangers on the bus, or street. It happens. It's not creepy, it's just how many people there are. And no one bats an eye. One of my favorite things is the kiss on the cheek (just one, on your right), when you first meet someone, or see someone you know. The girl I met once in my psych class did it to me last night. When i'm introduced to someone new I do it. I think it's so cool. Friends and couples walk around hand in hand, arms around them, couples make out at the park and lay on each other's laps while drinking mate, it's just a very loving, touchy culture. I think a little more human contact would do Americans good.
2. MATE. Ok, because I do not have all the info, and don't want to explain anything incorrectly, i'm going to post this link here about mate. http://www.therealargentina.com/argentinian-wine-blog/yerba-mate-tea-love-it-hate-it-drink-it/. Or google it if you want more info. It's basically a tea, but not just any tea. It has so many rituals surrounding it. It is made to share with friends, I read something once that was like how it has different purposes with other people and by yourself. With others, it is a time to enjoy each others company and share ideas and thoughts. By yourself, you have time alone with your thoughts and enjoying your own company. You will see people drinking mate any time of day. It has caffeine, but it makes you less jittery than coffee and sometimes people with caffeine sensitivity can enjoy mate too. Students use it to focus but it won't keep you up all night either. These are all things i've heard, i've had it several times but never in these situations. At first, it is very bitter, but i've come to really love the taste. I bought my own gourd (it's literally a gourd), and I still have to cure it before I can use it. I'll do a whole post on mate later when I start the process and show some pictures.
3. Public transportation. Yeah I know I complained about it earlier. But I am very fond of public transportation. For 3-3.75 pesos (25 to 30 cents with the blue dollar) you can ride the bus. And you usually don't have to walk more than a few blocks on either end to get to any destination in the city. And (normally) you don't have to wait too long. Sundays and feriados are different. Sometimes they are full and you have to stand for an hour, sometimes you can sit and enjoy yourself and city watching. It depends on the day and time.
4. The food. Alfajores (soft cookies with dulce de leche in 2+ layers all covered in chocolate) are my addiction because they are amazing. I need to stop. Dulce de leche, like caramel but better. The coffee. The medialunas, so much better than normal croissants. I have yet to try asado (bbq) but it'll be unreal (we're having one Thursday night in Mendoza! :)) Every little candy and cracker thing you buy tastes so good to me. The pizza, the ice cream (yes its all unhealthy so what).
5. The contradictions. So much juxtaposition in this city (shown in the video at the bottom that I found). There are so many beautiful modern places and so many dirty torn down areas. There are so many wealthy people and so many homeless people. In my pictures of the Recoleta Cemetery, you could see the super old cemetery with cranes and other modern buildings in the background. It is so interesting. And going along with this, the mixture of cultures. So much Italian and European influence on the culture and the city but also a feeling of Latin America and its own spice that it brings. Fascinating for an anth major :) Another: people love to relax and sit around and drink mate but also go really hard and party until 6 in the morning.... people just love life I guess.
6. Kind of a leeway off the last one, but people are so passionate. Whether it be in relationships (very nice) or when driving (lots of honking and cussing on the street) people are extremely passionate about their lives. No passivity here.
I can't think of any more specifics right now, but each day when I get frustrated, I try to think of these things. Each morning when I wake up I still (after 5 weeks) am like WAIT! I'm in Argentina! What!? Still haven't gotten used to it.
Here is this video someone posted on FB. It makes me so happy to be here. Can't wait to see other places in the country.
https://vimeo.com/122515337
Chau, besos!
-Anna
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